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Eco-Friendly Gardening

To those of us who are plant design driven, this means producing the most while imputing the least. What this means to start with is eliminating pesticides for pest and disease control. Once again it comes back to design. Instead of approaching organics from the standpoint of what do we spray and apply, when and where, we should consider how to reduce the need for any treatment.

The answer is incredibly simple! If we are to reduce the need to control pests (which really means kill things we don’t want), we need to identify what we do want! If what we want is beautiful foliage and flowers without blemishes from disease or insect damage, then we should start with the right plant for the conditions, light moisture, soil, etc. Then maybe select a cultivare that is bred to be resistant to insects, disease etc., next we may want to alter, change or in some way manipulate the conditions. That is what we do as gardeners and designers. So let’s do it! Let’s do it right!

Removing or pruning a tree to bring in more light is an example. Putting in a subsurface drain is another one. Amending the soil with sand or compost to change the structure and improve the biology is another. Anything that we do to strengthen the plants health and immune system will positively affect our gardens’ well being. Think of the garden as a body with living organs, sometimes serving different functions, just as our own bodies work.

Back to design. If we increase the bio-diversity by incorporating a variety of plants we can reduce pest populations by biologically selecting beneficial insects who will act as predators on harmful pests, or balance the populations, thus reducing damage. The advantage being, from a succession point of view, we will increase the overall composition as well as health of the ecosystem. Attracting different birds, bees, bugs and butterflies throughout the season should be a design goal.

Next, cultural practices. As we now know the best way to improve your lawn is…don’t cut it too short! Leaf mulching reduces the need for synthetic fertilizers etc. The root to shoot ratio of biomass for turfgrass is low. So reduce or eliminate the lawn areas! Prairie grasses and wildflowers have deeper roots, requiring less water, typically no fertilizer, little or no pruning and, once established, very little weeding or maintenance of any kind. They also add organic matter naturally to the soil subsurface as roots decay and die, creating food for other organisms and space for air and water.

Don’t forget about watering! You’re going to need it to get things established. Are you going to do it by hand? Are you going to buy hoses, set up timers etc.? Will you hire a professional to install an irrigation system? What kind of system? Drip, mist, pop-up heads? What about passive irrigation or harvesting rain water? Remember, trees, shrubs, perennials and annuals all have different watering requirements. Are they all growing in the same bed? Then there’s the deer! You may need deer repellent or God forbid, fencing. (Deer resistant plants are an option, limiting, depending on the browse pressure).

Back to design again. If you develop a naturalized area or border in your landscape, not only will you invite, see, and enjoy more birdlife, you will reduce your carbon footprint as well as labor and $.

Now you can consider what organic natural products in terms or soil amendments (compost, worm casting etc.), bio-stimulants, soaps, oil, etc. you may or may not use for your “Best Management Practices” in the garden/landscape. For great info, see Rutgers, Cornell, UConn, UMass. Even if you’re out of state, I find them great resources.

Last, if you need help, you can or hire a real horticultural professional. A garden ecologist is something more that a landscaper with a pickup truck.

I’m a guy who loves pickup trucks but there’s a lot more to it! I was recently asked by no less than three prospective employees what they could do to get the necessary skills, over the winter, to join our landscape/gardening division in a supervisory position. It’s like asking how do you acquire the skills to play in the Super Bowl in three months! How do you get to Carnegie Hall….

It absolutely, definitely, pays to hire a ecological landscape professional if your intention is to transform your existing landscape into one of natural beauty, a landscape environment happier and healthier for all living things to share and enjoy.

Jay Archer, President

914-560-6570

jay@greenjaylandscapedesign.com

There are many ways to manage storm water. Traditional or conventional methods include french drains, curtain drains, perimeter drains, dry wells, trench drains, culverts, catch basins…

These systems are designed to convey storm water underground (sub-surface) to a destination, usually a water course or subterranean chamber. Although these systems function to drain and convey water from the surface, thereby eliminating pooling, they are often invasive and expensive.

When we think about drainage we should consider the big picture. We may need a storm drain or channel drain to evacuate water from a hardscape surface in a hurry for safety or we may want to manage the sheet flow (surface water) across the grade of the entire landscape. There are many creative and sometimes even attractive ways to go about this. One way is to interrupt the grade, particularly on a steep pitch, with berms, contouring or planting beds. Bio-swales are occasionally employed as a decorative landscape feature. In addition to meeting our physical and code requirements, including sustainability, they can add interest to the landscape appearance. When using decorative gravel in a bio-swale you need to determine the flow rate. If the flow is great enough in storm events to move the gravel you may have a problem maintaining it.

Drainage Systems can pose challenges in engineering and construction yet are a necessary component for an optimally functioning landscape. If we consider water management a priority in landscape design and development we can avoid costly and sometimes plain ugly mistakes. As usual, I recommend hiring a professional to design and execute these features. Determine what your requirements are first and work with them, not around them. Integrating water management into design works well and makes sense, aesthetically, ecologically and financially.

For more info on Drainage Design and Construction stay tuned, see our Facebook, Twitter, Google Plus, Youtube

Jay Archer, President

914-560-6570

jay@greenjaylandscapedesign.com

Although we may have just experienced the longest sub-freezing period anyone can remember here in Fairfield, Putnam and Westchester Counties, there is hope for a brighter tomorrow! This is a reminder of why we dig in the fall to plant bulbs with hope and faith that we will both survive and flourish in the new year. The squirrels dig to bury nuts for later, even though they can’t always remember where. We dig to harvest joy and celebrate new life. When we plant bulbs, we try to complete at least one area. It’s very difficult to go back and fill in next fall when they are not visible. One of the neat ways we use to get around that is by planting bulbs in containers, covered with mulch, placed on pallets or gravel (for drainage). Although they may not all survive, its’ well worth the effort to have them around in spring to fill in.

As with everything else that we do in designing planting plans, we are thinking of diversity and wildlife. We love to see the positive interaction between all God’s creatures, plants, animals, etc. It’s a wonder to behold. We need to remember what can attract and provide food for deer. I have found that you can even grow tulips and crocus in Westchester County (very succulent to deer) by simply treating them with an organic, natural source repellent. The key to the effectiveness of these producst are two important practices:

First, mix the concentrate at a higher than recommended rate by one third. You will not harm anything if it’s a naturally based organic formulation. The reason for this is that most repellants are intended for moderate deer browse. I don’t know about you but that’s not what we have around here!

Second, remember is to be critically aware of timing. If you spray the foliage as it emerges, then again about a week later, again when the flowers are about to open and finally when the flowers are fully open and in bloom, you will have the best results.
The beauty of color energizes the soul after the drabness of winter passes. There are so many interesting varieties of bulbs, including many natives. They are also a good investment if properly done ( like anything else). You should use an organic bulb foodwhen planting. You may consider dipping the bulbs in a repellant and allowing to dry overnight to reduce rodent damage. We like to plant bulbs in late October through early December. Plant them too early and the animals may dig them up!

Spring flowering bulbs add a rich dimension to any landscape and inspire a cheerful optimism when our landscapes need it most! Have Fun and enjoy life!

Jay Archer, President (and Bulb Enthusiast)

914-560-6570

jay@greenjaylandscapedesign.com

Winter is Wonderful!

Here are some things to think about…

First, deer repellent or fencing? If you did not already fence your property with a 7-8′ high metal or plastic mesh or grid material, it’s probably already too late! The ground in the northeast has frozen early. It seems the extended dry period has ended and we have received much needed rainfall. Excellent for plants as the root systems should be fully hydrated before they enter their dormant winter cycle. This early freeze poses other practical challenges however, such as making it difficult if not impossible to install fence post. Keep in mind, if you’re going to successfully exclude deer from your property by fencing you should consider the following; Additional height by single strand wire up to ten feet above the fence. This increases height without violating building code restrictions. If the snow is three feet deep, the fencing is lower too! Gates and or cattle grates may be required. Electric gates sometimes get stuck when electric fails or snow and ice block mechanisms or moving parts. Allow access for oil tank or any other utilities etc, that may need to be available(see other blogs for more info). Occasionally walk the property and especially the perimeter to insure there are no fallen trees or branches compromising the enclosure.

I personally prefer to avoid temporary as well as permanent fencing for deer. From an ecological standpoint it disrupts the natural biotic corridors. Directing the foraging herds to your neighbors is not real friendly. Once again, if we design landscapes with natural barriers as well as selecting more deer resistant natives, our landscapes will easily be more sustainable with less maintenance and use fewer resources. To deter deer browse/damage I suggest Deer Free/ Winter Armor. This product is basically a white pepper and latex based formulation which serves as both a repellent and anti-dessicant. We mix it slightly stronger than the recommended rate. It promoted and marketed to last up to six months! I would happily settle for three.

Winter is the perfect time to prune your dormant fruit trees as well as other deciduous trees and shrubs. Eliminate dead branches, cross branching, sucker shoots etc.. Inspect your property for animal sign (tracks, well worn game paths, etc.). Look at areas you may want to add or remove wood and brush piles. Many but not all creatures are hibernating. Being aware of your wildlife inventory can be a source of pleasure as well as help you understand the dynamics of wildlife management. Which brings us to habitat. If you desire to encourage birds in winter, be sure you provide a water source, shelter, food etc.. Their are many good resources for info including National Wildlife Federation, Audubon and Wild Birds Unlimited to name a few. Have fun enjoying and learning about your wildlife.

Forest or woodlot management is something to consider in winter. A great resource for this is Northern Woodlands Magazine. You may also look at the storm water issues on your site or property. These may include flow paths, sheet flow, surface as well as subsurface water. Does water accumulate in some areas only in winter potentially creating safely or liability issues? What do you do for snow and ice control. That’s a whole different animal!

Aside from enjoying the wonderful winter environment outdoors there is so much you can do to improve and enhance your indoor spaces, both in terms in aesthetic appearance and health. Indoor plants or plantscapes can add so much enjoyment and value. By bringing nature into your home you can clean the air and refresh the senses. Consider an aquarium, terrarium, fairy garden or indoor water feature to make life indoors in winter more fun and interesting.

Finally, there is no better time to design, plan and schedule your landscape design projects. Why wait? Spring becomes summer and summer, fall fast enough. Don’t wait and let another year go by. Start Now !

Remember good design is not priceless but bad design is…..

Jay Archer, President

914-560-6570

jay@greenjaylandscapedesign.com

Danger! Rough road ahead !

Why does no one talk about the fall drought we are experiencing? Is it true that we just don’t care or are unaware and insensitive to the natural world around us as well as the needs of our landscapes? Even if you have an underground irrigation system to water your lawns and landscape beds, I’m willing to bet it has been turned off for winter. We are at a deficit when it comes to rainfall. It has been unusually warm, dry and now windy.

In spring, plants need water in the form of snowmelt, ground water and rainfall to produce leaves, flowers, etc. In the spring drought we experienced this past year (actually two years in a row) the plants were stressed during what usually would be a lush time. The plants have the option of producing less leaf growth and flowers to conserve energy. In the fall, however, plants and especially trees need to transfer energy to the root systems to produce food. When normal weather conditions (whatever that is) don’t provide adequate resources for healthy growth, we must compensate.

The real danger to the plants is the desiccation and drying of roots, twigs and stems causing die back, weakness and possibly, in extreme cases, death. It is very hard to determine by observation if a woody plant is stressed in winter.

These are recommendations for improving your landscapes’ health and survivability:

First, and most important, Water,Water,Water! Put out an impulse lawn sprinkler and leave it in each area for an hour.

Next, apply an anti-dessicant spray to reduce winter burn, especially to evergreens.
Lastly, deep root feeding of specimen trees and shrubs will insure you have adequately hydrated the root zone before the ground freezes and the roots freeze dry. This is most critical. If we do not get at least a couple of inches of rain before the ground freezes, usually soon after Thanksgiving in our area, plant systems could be exposed to a freeze drying effect. If the ground freezes without moisture the delicate root hairs may be freeze dried or damaged, limiting the plants ability to uptake water from the roots. This damage may not be obviously visible in one or more seasons.

Take the time to care for your landscape now and have the peace of mind that you have done everything you could to help and protect your plants, landscape and investment in your property.

This is the best way to insure you will continue to enjoy your ‘Landscape for Better Living’.

Post Script: I am a huge advocate for organic, naturally sustainable landscaping. Now is a good time for organic fertilizers for your lawns, trees and shrubs. Acid-loving plants require elemental sulfur in much of our area to adjust the ph. Also, apply calcitic lime and/or gypsum, if needed (based on soil test). I use and recommend bio-stimulants to improve the soil biology as well.

Don’t forget snowplow reflectors and deer repellant!

Jay Archer, President

914-560-6570

jay@greenjaylandscapedesign.com

This naturally beautiful landscape was the setting for a very interesting wetland restoration. The large pond pictured is actually part of the Mill River system. To improve the water quality, stabilize the soil, increase the habitat value and bio-diversity a planting plan was produced.

Care was taken not to disturb the existing soil surface and riverbank. No significant grading or ‘cut and fill’ was employed. The property already had extensive ornamental landscaping and was very well maintained by a gardening group. The homeowner was very receptive to implementing a native plant plan. The challenge was to seamlessly integrate the existing more formal gardens and traditional landscape with the ‘new’ native plant communities. The area involved was quite large affording the opportunity to introduce large sweeps, drifts and masses of plants.

By staggering the plant groups crosspollination and movement was encouraged. An already varied and active bird population was present. It was very easy to increase to variety and species. Plants were planted from seed, plugs (tubelings or eco-plugs) as well as containers and balled and burlapped. A healthy mix of perennials, grasses shrubs and small trees made up what was to become a lovely composition. There are several approaches to planting trees and shrubs in a natural, native landscape. They revolve primarily around whether trees and shrubs act as bird perches, which contribute to an increase in invasive species as a result of bird droppings.

My feeling is that restoration is hard to define. If we accept that all landscapes have been altered and manipulated by both man and nature (fire, flood events etc.) than what are we returning to what? The East coast was primarily forest. Stop mowing your lawn and find out how quickly it will revert to a sylvan setting! I had a cartoon on my desk, which reminded me of how we must muster our own resources and energy to create positive change in our environment for our health as well as artistic and spiritual enrichment. The image was of a minister with a white banded collar looking over a garden wall at a gardener on his knees (sic) while commenting: “Isn’t it amazing what the hand of God can do my son?”, the gardeners response was: “Yea father you should have seen it when God had it all to himself”.

Working with nature is rewarding in so many ways. Aside from the obvious aesthetic advantages of improving the appearance, the tangible physical benefits even short term are many. From a human and public health perspective the increase in insect-eaters aided in control of mosquito and tick populations, thereby reducing or even eliminating the threat of infectious diseases such as Lyme and West Nile. When designing natural landscape or using bio-mimicry as a model it can be useful to resource government agencies such as National Resource Conservation Service, National Wildlife Federation, or the NY Westchester County Native Plant Center. In nature we find serenity and salvation. Celebrate life!

Live the Life You Love

Jay Archer, President

914-560-6570

jay@greenjaylandscapedesign.com

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